Saturday 30 December 2017
N/S Half Shaft Out
I worked some trolley jack magic today to get her out far enough to be able to remove the N/S half shaft, and the other swivel hub I need to rebuild..
Repair Stud
Having fit the first of the rebuilt swivel hubs I went to fit the new hub parts and brake drum and get the wheel back on. What could go wrong?
First, I couldn't get the hub back on the stub axle. It was definitely the same stub axle carrier I took off that side as it's the one with the land that can be turned by hand. I tried the old inner bearing, and found that quite tricky too. The angle had to be just right and even then only one in ten attempts to get it over the lip of the stub axle was successful. I polished the stub off with the angle grinder and rust and paint removal disc. That didn't make much difference, but I put the new greased bearing back in the hub and went about it more carefully. After a couple of minutes it slid on - just as a good song came on the radio.. ;-)
Next, the new brake drum wouldn't go on. The old one slid straight on, but not the new one. I started tapping around it gently with a rubber mallet to try and work out the obstruction - and a wheel stud popped out!
Indoors, with the stud, I found it was actually a repair stud:
I assumed due to its 'pull-in' fit it had come loose when the hub was off and had been at an angle preventing the new brake drum to pass on. I put it in, and when I tried to find a wheel nut to pull it back into the hub with - I eventually worked out only one of my wheel nuts fit it, and that it was very slightly bigger than the original studs. Then the penny dropped, and I drilled out the right hole in the new brake drum ever so slightly - and it went on.
I tested the tension on the steering arm before connecting everything back up on that side and got movement at around 15lb, which is just right. Next I put the wheel back on and set about getting the Land Rover out the garage enough to remove the half shaft on the other side to get that swivel hub off for a rebuild..
First, I couldn't get the hub back on the stub axle. It was definitely the same stub axle carrier I took off that side as it's the one with the land that can be turned by hand. I tried the old inner bearing, and found that quite tricky too. The angle had to be just right and even then only one in ten attempts to get it over the lip of the stub axle was successful. I polished the stub off with the angle grinder and rust and paint removal disc. That didn't make much difference, but I put the new greased bearing back in the hub and went about it more carefully. After a couple of minutes it slid on - just as a good song came on the radio.. ;-)
Next, the new brake drum wouldn't go on. The old one slid straight on, but not the new one. I started tapping around it gently with a rubber mallet to try and work out the obstruction - and a wheel stud popped out!
Indoors, with the stud, I found it was actually a repair stud:
I assumed due to its 'pull-in' fit it had come loose when the hub was off and had been at an angle preventing the new brake drum to pass on. I put it in, and when I tried to find a wheel nut to pull it back into the hub with - I eventually worked out only one of my wheel nuts fit it, and that it was very slightly bigger than the original studs. Then the penny dropped, and I drilled out the right hole in the new brake drum ever so slightly - and it went on.
I tested the tension on the steering arm before connecting everything back up on that side and got movement at around 15lb, which is just right. Next I put the wheel back on and set about getting the Land Rover out the garage enough to remove the half shaft on the other side to get that swivel hub off for a rebuild..
Saturday 23 December 2017
O/S Swivel Hub Back On
I've managed to get the O/S swivel hub back together and back on the Land Rover. New axle case oil seal, gaskets, swivel housing seal, retainer, top pin, bottom bearing, and fixings. I also fit new a steering lock stop bolt and plate, and jack stop (it's meant to be there..).
I still need to check the shims are set right by putting a spring balance on the steering arm, and I need to order some new nuts for the steering arm bracket studs on the underside. I ordered by part number from my 2/2A parts catalogue, but these parts were beefed up somewhere around 1966, and as mine's a '69 I need to order with part numbers from the Series 3 catalogue. I can replace those in situ when I get them in the new year.
Tidied up stub axle carrier and new brake shoes and cylinder also back in place. If things continue I could get onto the N/S before the end of my Christmas break.
I still need to check the shims are set right by putting a spring balance on the steering arm, and I need to order some new nuts for the steering arm bracket studs on the underside. I ordered by part number from my 2/2A parts catalogue, but these parts were beefed up somewhere around 1966, and as mine's a '69 I need to order with part numbers from the Series 3 catalogue. I can replace those in situ when I get them in the new year.
Tidied up stub axle carrier and new brake shoes and cylinder also back in place. If things continue I could get onto the N/S before the end of my Christmas break.
Saturday 16 December 2017
Stub Axle Carriers
I got half an hour today so I decided while I wait for new bolts, studs, and axle case oil seals to arrive I would clean up the stub axle carriers and fit new lands (distance pieces).
When I stripped the OS hub I found the land was loose that side, so I cracked it off with a cold chisel and ordered two new ones. When I cleaned that side up today and fit the new land, I only needed a bit of WD40 to fit it by hand, and I can still turn it by hand now it's on. The NS was a different story though. The land was much harder to remove, and fitting the new one required heat and a mallet and a few minutes working it down into place. Now it's on, I can't turn it by hand at all.
Which leaves me wondering why one side is "loose" (there is no gap, but I can turn it by hand and could remove it by hand). The stub axle pieces look identical to the eye, but the OS is clearly very slightly narrower (uniformly, all the way down, not just worn or narrower at the lip or at one point..).
Just a slight difference in the precision of the machining back then I suppose. As a spacer it makes no difference that I can turn it by hand.
When I stripped the OS hub I found the land was loose that side, so I cracked it off with a cold chisel and ordered two new ones. When I cleaned that side up today and fit the new land, I only needed a bit of WD40 to fit it by hand, and I can still turn it by hand now it's on. The NS was a different story though. The land was much harder to remove, and fitting the new one required heat and a mallet and a few minutes working it down into place. Now it's on, I can't turn it by hand at all.
Which leaves me wondering why one side is "loose" (there is no gap, but I can turn it by hand and could remove it by hand). The stub axle pieces look identical to the eye, but the OS is clearly very slightly narrower (uniformly, all the way down, not just worn or narrower at the lip or at one point..).
Just a slight difference in the precision of the machining back then I suppose. As a spacer it makes no difference that I can turn it by hand.
Saturday 9 December 2017
Still Alive
Well, plastering and painting in my kitchen have taken priority, but now I have enough brownie points in the bank to get these swivel hubs refurbed over Christmas..
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| A bit of wet'n'dry brought the housing up nice |
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