I refit the overdrive today. Sadly, it had leaked some oil so I replaced the copper crush washer on the drain plug with a Dowty Washer. If that doesn't work, I'll be looking at a replacement Roamerdrive at some point, but it's not urgent. The Dowty should be better, and the leak is only drops per day anyway.
The refit was straightforward. I put Rocol inside the overdrive where it mates the clutch sleeve. The old mainshaft nut lock washer was actually broken when I removed it, which explains why the mainshaft nut was only finger tight. I fit a new one and torqued the nut to 85 ft lb (having the box in gear was enough for this). I couldn't feel any play at all in the mainshaft itself while I was there.
There's various tips and tricks written about getting the O/D back on. I had the inspection plate off the top of the transfer box anyway from fitting the mainshaft nut lock washer. The O\D didn't slide all the way on when I offered it up but instead of pulling levers or rocking the vehicle I just reached through the inspection port and turned the O/D mainshaft by finger until it slipped over the clutch sleeve. Easy.
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| A broken lock washer was behind the loose mainshaft nut. |
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| New lock washer fitted. There are three tabs to bend back. They will not align to the gaps between the teeth of the mainshaft nut, so you fold them over the edge of the nearest teeth. Two of the three should fold on the CCW side of a tooth, but you'll probably have one you just have to fold over the CW side. (In hindsight it's worth experimenting with the two positions you have to choose between. With the two prongs inserted into the clutch sleeve, you can have two of the tabs you will bend at the top and one at the bottom, or two at the bottom and one at the point. Try both, torquing up to 85, and see which one gives you the best positions to lock the nut from before you bend any tabs over.) |
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| Rocol anti-scuff compound where the O/D mates the clutch sleeve in the transfer box. |
