Second Dumb Iron Rebuild

I've finished rebuilding the other dumb iron. As with the first, I learnt a lot and appreciated the welding experience, but in future I think I'd look to replace the whole thing if I suspected it needed anymore than a local repair or two - and I'm now a better judge of what the job will turn into based on how it looks from the outside..

This one was worse than the first. I replace the main underside, the 'bridge' section that 'holds up' the inner floor, the inner floor, the sides, top, and front, and crush brace. The underside and sides were all double welded from both sides. The bumper fits. The dumb irons are level when the front cross-member is level. Glad to have this complete. I do have a repair on the underside of the first dumb iron to make at some point when I go to the passenger side, but I'm going to carry on with the driver's side now with some bulkhead repairs.. that's another story.

New underisde and sides, welded both sides, replaced back to good metal.

New bridge welded in under here already, new floor lined up.

New inner floor welded in.

Crush brace welded in at bottom, bumper bolt holes drilled, top laid in place.

All welded and painted inside, top and front welded on.

Alternator

I've replaced the old Ford alternator that was not very well secured and would not align well enough with the other pulleys for my liking.

There is no "correct" alternator for a Series 2A that was not fitted with a Lucas ACR 11 as an option at the factory (they have voltmeters on the dash). There are alternators that are suitable in terms of current and voltage, and that fit, and there are alternators that are not, or don't (e.g. alternators suitable for Defender 2.5 and 200 TDI engines would be suitable if they didn't foul the engine mount on a Series petrol engine..).

My late 2A has a 2.25 petrol engine, suffix A. I have fit an alternator that is "correct" for S3 vehicles starting from engine suffix B. I replaced the dynamo bracket with the S3 alternator bracket, that fits in its place, and I also swapped my S2 dynamo tensioner for a S3 alternator tensioner, which is slightly narrower and shorter, and I felt cleared the alternator blades a little better. Other than that, a 1075mm x 10mm wide x 8mm deep fan belt fits perfectly, giving good clearance between the tensioner and alternator blades, and alternator casing and engine mount. I'm really happy with the fit.

S2 dynamo tensioner alongside an S3 alternator tensioner

Use spacers (washers) to align the belt with the cam and crank pulleys

Alternator:
https://bearmach.com/alternator-suitable-for-series-iii-suffix-b-engine-range-rover-classic-v8-carb-vehicles-br-3551

Drive belt:
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p20079562/AVX10x1075-Major-Brand-AVX-Section-Cogged-V-Belt/product_info.html

The drive belt specified in the S3 parts book is 1050mm in length. If you are fitting an alternator to a late 2A don't be surprised if you need a slightly longer drive belt. Whether the cam or crank pulleys changed diameter, or there's another slight difference in the blocks between A and B, I don't know. I needed another 25mm.

There is no "correct" alternator for a 2A with no voltmeter on the dash from the factory. You just have to find one that is suitable, that fits, and that can be aligned.

Bonnet Tidy

With a lot of places closed as part of the Covid-19 restrictions, and all the uncertainty, I've been looking for progress I can make at low cost.

I was pressure washing the wings and other bits in the garden and the underside of the bonnet came up so nicely and showed all the original overspray that I decided I could touch up the black paint on the steel frame of it too.

I've included some original shots (after the cup brush) to show the green overspray originally went as far as covering the two horizontal parts of the frame, including the small bracket the spring-latch is threaded into. I haven't re-produced that when I've painted the steel frame, but if and when I spray the bonnet as part of a re-spray in the future I will!

Note this is a blade bonnet but it does not have a full size bonnet "strike" bracket that bolts onto the frame like other S2 bonnets do, just a small one welded to the frame under the spring latch.

After a pressure wash and cup brush on the steel frame the original overspray is clear

Over spray went straight over the some of the frame bottom sides and centre

Over spray went right along the top of the frame too

Tidy!

I think it looks tidy now, and I took the spring latch apart and degreased that and straightened it out so the bonnet latches nice and tight now too.

I've also cleaned up and am painting the mudshields but I'll just show those when the wings eventually go back on.

Next job is the other dumb iron rebuild.

Progress Update and Future Plans

I haven't been taking as many pictures lately, just enjoying the project. I'm putting the 2A back together now so I'll be able to drive and enjoy it after so much work, uncover any problems evident in use on the road, and to make it easier to move if we do move house later this year!

I welded some bulkhead outrigger braces on yesterday. That's a job I'll do before fitting new brake pipes in future. The driver's side is very close work with new pipes so close by, but I got the job done with care. The passenger's side was easier and a better weld for having warmed up for the year on the other side first. I made them up from a length of 25x3mm angle.

I have fit the correct three-spoke steering wheel, the rear tub wiring covers, and the S3 alternator bracket I needed has arrived so I'll fit that soon and do the first run test since fitting the new water pump last year.

I've started replacing front lighting parts with a view to knocking some dents out the wings and getting them reattached. I may need to purchase new mud shields for both sides.

I am going to need new tyres before using it on the road.. some of the cracks in the current ones are so deep I don't know how far down they go. Which brings me onto some thoughts I've been having about the long-term direction of this project.

I had been planning to get new 235/85 R16 to replace what's on there today on the LWB rims it came with, but I'm starting to realise that what I have enjoyed most about working on the Land Rover is restoring its originality. Fitting the correct seats, steering wheel, the jack stop, the bands to hold the brake pipes to the rear axle, the correct brake pipe shields, the elbow strip, check straps, the grille, the plates, and so on.

Similarly, it always felt mildly wrong to put parabolic springs on the rear, and even now to fit an alternator when I know it had a dynamo originally. I want to re-fit a S2 style magna tex indicator and restore the floor dip switch to working order. All of this means.. I like to restore originality where it has been lost. So I am considering fitting original size and pattern rims and tyres, and at some point, getting that S2 indicator switch and a dynamo.

But first, I am going to continue putting it back together and enjoy driving it on the road and finding out what gremlins are hiding in the drive train - I am sure there are a few. The fun goes on.

Slow Winter

It's been a slow winter, I haven't done much on the Series 2A since the new year but now the daffodils and blossom are coming out I'm back in the garage.

I've put the seat base back in, save the tightening up once I know everything is good and aligned. The original seat belts are back in, the seat rails are painted and in place and I have a full set of 8-rib original deluxe vinyl seats too. I found the last one I needed, and outer base, in the back of a Series 1 pick-up.. which I might just meet again one day but that will be another story.

Today I put the new black and silver aluminium plates on. I like them. It's registered as a Historic Vehicle, being registered in 1969, so it is allowed period correct plates.

Pictures soon, once I've finished putting the interior back together and put the 2A 3-spoke steering wheel in. Then I'll fit the new, correct, alternator and fill her up with water to test the new water pump I fitted back in the autumn. If it doesn't leak the wings and doors will be going back!

Overdrive Refit

I refit the overdrive today. Sadly, it had leaked some oil so I replaced the copper crush washer on the drain plug with a Dowty Washer. If that doesn't work, I'll be looking at a replacement Roamerdrive at some point, but it's not urgent. The Dowty should be better, and the leak is only drops per day anyway.

The refit was straightforward. I put Rocol inside the overdrive where it mates the clutch sleeve. The old mainshaft nut lock washer was actually broken when I removed it, which explains why the mainshaft nut was only finger tight. I fit a new one and torqued the nut to 85 ft lb (having the box in gear was enough for this). I couldn't feel any play at all in the mainshaft itself while I was there.

There's various tips and tricks written about getting the O/D back on. I had the inspection plate off the top of the transfer box anyway from fitting the mainshaft nut lock washer. The O\D didn't slide all the way on when I offered it up but instead of pulling levers or rocking the vehicle I just reached through the inspection port and turned the O/D mainshaft by finger until it slipped over the clutch sleeve. Easy.

A broken lock washer was behind the loose mainshaft nut.

New lock washer fitted. There are three tabs to bend back. They will not align to the gaps between the teeth of the mainshaft nut, so you fold them over the edge of the nearest teeth. Two of the three should fold on the CCW side of a tooth, but you'll probably have one you just have to fold over the CW side. (In hindsight it's worth experimenting with the two positions you have to choose between. With the two prongs inserted into the clutch sleeve, you can have two of the tabs you will bend at the top and one at the bottom, or two at the bottom and one at the point. Try both, torquing up to 85, and see which one gives you the best positions to lock the nut from before you bend any tabs over.)

Rocol anti-scuff compound where the O/D mates the clutch sleeve in the transfer box.

Overdrive Drain Plug Helicoil Fix

I've been busy and have had the tools lined up for this job for weeks. The thread was so badly stripped I didn't need to drill it out, I just used the tap straight away with plenty of oil. Then I wound the helicoil in, broke (and found!) the tang, flushed it through with some petrol while turning the main shaft, and left it on a wheel ramp with some fresh gear oil inside. I used a 9/16" x 12 UNC helicoil kit.

No leaks yet.. but if it does leak, and too badly to live with at that, I think I'm more likely to put a new "Roamerdrive" on than try to source a good Fairey casing and rebuild this one into it. Fingers crossed. If the tray is still dry when I'm next in the garage I'll be putting it back on with some anti-scuff paste and a new gasket and the floor and seat box and seats will follow shortly after!